As snow fell in a Burberry check pattern on screens surrounding the runway and the show streamed live all across the Internet, classic met contemporary and formed one of this season’s best bonds. Christopher Bailey sent out a parade of coats that not only saluted Burberry’s outerwear heritage, but also paid homage to military history for inspiring so many enduring coat styles : trenches, peacoats, officer coats, bombers and more. Hulking double-breasted wool overcoats fit for the Russian front, double-collared brown-leather shearlings cut for the Battle of Britain. He did variations on these classics, showing a range of proportions and fabrics while sticking close to traditional codes -except when he got a bit carried away with deep-pile teddy bear fur. Brass buttons and épaulette motifs extended from coats to sweaters. The buttons turned glam when clustered on shoulders or cuffs. Denim and chambray shirts were as sharply pressed as a military dress uniform, marking a departure for Mr Bailey, who had insisted on everything wrinkled for a few seasons. And not a tie or dress shirt proper to be found. The uniformity reached full expression in the lower body as trousers came in multiple dark fabrics but only a single clingy cut, and were invariably tucked into military boots. A world where boots rule and are at times distressed or lined for extra warmth, and bags over-sized to fit an ever-growing schedule. The show exuded gallantry and reverence, and benefited from Christopher Bailey’s admirable taste in New Wave music. Though perhaps not as innovative or definitive as some other Burberry Prorsum collections, its broad appeal demonstrated why Mr B has been promoted to the British house’s top brass.
