The steely chic of DKNY's man this season spoke volumes about life for Donna's young' uns in New York City -they now want to look like they mean business. Hence, the parade of charcoal-toned twills, tweeds, and flannels that defined her menswear. Mind you, there were allowances made for the fact that the modern Wall Streeter isn't as buttoned-up-tight as his predecessors. Though pants are slim, the tailoring isn't strict : jackets are shorter, slightly boxy in their construction, and easy-shouldered. Everything was worn with boots in the show. And the narrow silk ties that invariably accompanied the collection's shirts had a muted flash, which complemented the paillettes and Lurex of the womenswear. Even the more casual items felt dressy, like the nylon taffeta blouson, the cabled cardigan jacket, and the steel-grey snorkel parka. Clearly, there is no excuse to look sloppy on the new frontiers of finance !