Nice Collective

There was an unmistakable "12 Monkeys" vibe at the Angel Orensaz Center on Manhattan's Lower East Side, site of Joe Haller and Ian Hannula's first-ever New York runway show. The effect was only augmented by the huge video apparatus, like the one used for Bruce Willis' interrogation scenes in the movie, which hung over the runway (what was on it ? Eyeballs, for the most part). And there was certainly something postapocalyptic -not to mention post-erotic- about the clothes. Soft, military-inspired canvas pants with articulated knees, and washed, laser-cut leathers with asymmetrical seams were paired with densely layered gauzy knits or nothing at all (many of the women sported latex tights; thankfully the men didn't receive that treatment, though an olive peacoat with leather trim was shown with boxer shorts and combat boots). Hooded scarves muffled the face and the canvas parkas looked like protective gear, a prevalent notion this season. The cumulative effect was uneasy but intoxicating. Kudos.