Shipley & Halmos

Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos talked about "the aesthetics of the self-empowered individual" in the manifesto that accompanied their show. That Ayn Rand-ish notion took sartorial shape in a sharp, hard silhouette (purportedly "a human representation of the Chrysler Building") and fabrics with a sci-fi sheen, as in a tonic-green evening jacket. The knitwear also had a futuristic edge. There were tops that looked like buttonless cardigans (very Logan's Run), and one black-and-green jacquard was reminiscent of electronic circuitry. But despite aiming for a modernist clarity, the collection elicited confusion from the audience. What on earth did any of this have to do with the other aesthetics that Shipley & Halmos have spent some years establishing for themselves ? That one was long on charm and quirk. This one could've used a bit more of both.