Every so often, a movie comes along that looks like a dead-cert fash inspiration. To ardent fans, Todd Haynes’s "Dylan Deconstruction : I’m not there" seemed like one such. But so far this season, not a glimmer of Dylanophilia, at least until Ann Demeulemeester set her show to multiple versions of "Knockin' on Heaven's door" by everyone from Antony & the Johnsons to Patti Smith (no Ann without Patti) to Bob Dylan himself. Backstage, Demeulemeester talked about being inspired by the song's uplifting, positive vibe. In actual fact, it's rather a wearily resigned little ballad, which meant it was perfectly in tune with the Ann of old. A reminder of that Ann was provided by the opener of her latest collection— -a scrawny preacher man in a shrunken crow-black suit- but what followed was as uplifting and positive as its inspiration wasn't. She created prints from the blossoms in her own garden, toned them in dusty pinks, purples, and lilacs (like the hydrangeas she stuck in hat bands) and cut them into jackets, shirts, pants, and waistcoats. Another print looked like candies. Such uncomplicated sweetness was something new for her.