For this season, Ann Demeulemeester envisioned Day Zero, the start of something new, with her men pioneering a future of optimistic change. The idea is informing many parts of pop culture at the moment -credit the B.O. Factor- and Demeulemeester's pioneers were poets and dreamers. Nomads, too. Their knee boots (and cutaway cavalry jackets) suggested they'd be making changes on horseback, rather than online. And they were wearing enough layers to also suggest that they were traveling with everything they treasured.
That kind of attitude breeds discipline, and there was indeed a neater, more structured feel to Demeulemeester's clothes. Last season, she indulged herself in color and print, but for this one she returned to her signature chiaroscuro of black and white, with an added flair for texture. From a distance, a crisscross jacquard weave looked embossed. Rosettes stamped on velvet gave a jacket a Renaissance richness. And the shimmer of scattered paillettes added a luminescence to otherwise plain pieces. The most impressive items were actually anything but disciplined. A raw wrap of goat fur, and huge knit pieces with dangling plaits of wool (I love those) were Ann Demeulemeester's pragmatic acknowledgment of the fact that her men will need brawn as well as brains, if and when Day Zero dawns. Uncertain future aside, an aw-shucks family note was sounded by the Cave men, Nick producing the music for the show, son Jethro walking in it (see last pic).
That kind of attitude breeds discipline, and there was indeed a neater, more structured feel to Demeulemeester's clothes. Last season, she indulged herself in color and print, but for this one she returned to her signature chiaroscuro of black and white, with an added flair for texture. From a distance, a crisscross jacquard weave looked embossed. Rosettes stamped on velvet gave a jacket a Renaissance richness. And the shimmer of scattered paillettes added a luminescence to otherwise plain pieces. The most impressive items were actually anything but disciplined. A raw wrap of goat fur, and huge knit pieces with dangling plaits of wool (I love those) were Ann Demeulemeester's pragmatic acknowledgment of the fact that her men will need brawn as well as brains, if and when Day Zero dawns. Uncertain future aside, an aw-shucks family note was sounded by the Cave men, Nick producing the music for the show, son Jethro walking in it (see last pic).
