In a hotly run race between heavy boots, big bags and sunglasses, it was the hat that finished on top to claim the prize : accessory of this season. As unlikely as it may seem, something suddenly feels right about the formal hat again. Watchers of cult American TV drama “Mad Men”, home of suited and booted, chain-smoking, 60s ad execs, may have already pondered over this headwear matter.Fashion designers from Armani to Yohji have certainly decided that this season it is out with casual beanies and hip-hop flavored caps, and in with more traditional hat styles. In view of the over-riding seasonal message -dressing up is back- this revival begins to make sense because not only does the hat fit with this sartorial mindset but it adds a strong statement to looks revolving around suiting. Add into the mix, the surprise style hero of the moment : Charlie Chaplin (the wide pants with shrunken jacket, as worn by Sean O'Pry), and the bowler hat is the obvious styling tip.
True bastions of the dapper Brit-gent aesthetics, Dunhill are backing the hat’s comeback as well. Dunhill have adopted the trilby this season because it is an international symbol of style and elegance within men’s fashion and a natural way to complete a gentleman’s outfit. Hardy Amies writing in his “ABC of Men’s Fashion”, published back in 1964, pinpointed two key reasons for men to sport hats. Firstly, to denote a certain social rank and secondly, that men’s clothing should enhance one’s height.
While models aren’t known to readily need any extra inches, Jean-Paul Gaultier convincingly managed to style virtually every single outfit at his show with a variation on the bowler -opening with not one but two models dapperly sporting them. His hat revival was particularly winning and wearable when teamed with a camel double-breasted coat, shirt and tie.
Whether accessorizing the season’s suiting or complimenting the trend for modern day dandyism meets dresswear as daywear, designers have supplied every possible hat wearing eventuality. You want a béret, head to Boss Orange, a black felt, wide brimmed number, go to Nicole Fahri, a tweed flat cap, visit Dolce & Gabbana. If there is a problem here, then it’s one of too much choice.
I would advise first time hat buyers (and those prone to panic purchases) to adhere to the following. A good fit is important, not only for the right look but for comfort. Try a selection of styles as the look will vary on different face shapes, some trial and error may be needed to find the perfect hat for you. This is not the time to be shy of SAs, so ask questions and investigate hat makers. If all else fails, you could do worse than study old pictures of Frank Sinatra, he remains a good influence.
