Bottega Veneta (part 1)

Italy has an extraordinary tradition of men's sartorialism, quite different from British tailoring – softer, more focused on the body, with an incredible level of craftsmanship. When Tomas Meier began to explore a more formal way of dressing in the collection, he looked to these techniques to see just how far he could push the boundaries, how extraordinary a suit he could make without going into custom made to measure. And his collection for this season certainly looks like he had fun trying to find the answer. Beginning with a bowler hat, the first outfit was the epitome of dapper dressing and what followed showed that every choice was allowed, providing it was put on with a determination to be the chicest man in the room.
Tomas Maier's usual mastery of the medium is apparent in this grown-up and highly impressive collection. With the obvious aim of designing for adults, rather than wealthy adolescents unlike many designers, the influences here range from Daniel Craig-era James Bond (with perhaps a small dose of Sean Connery) to an almost 'Wind in the Willows'-esque concentration on country-based greens and browns. Yet the emphasis here is on serious adult wear, rather than childish fancies, and so kitsch never dominates. That's not to say that there isn't humour here, thanks to the knowingly old-school business suits, just that Maier treats his craft with the respect it deserves.
Don't miss the woven leather bags – definitely on the list to steal from the boyfriend.