Emporio Armani (part 1)

Armani can always be relied upon to come up with a show that succeeds on both aesthetic and fashionable levels, and this new collection seems almost like a greatest-hits of his. There are the usual deep blacks and metallic greys, set off against khaki and beautifully designed casual wear; as ever, smartness and informality go hand in hand, without any contradiction in terms. Like Dolce & Gabbana, Armani suggests that shades are fashionable this season, and so eyewear forms a dominant part of the collection. And, as ever, when it comes to the perfect suit, there's really nobody to compare to him.
The key item clearly is the jacket, offered in dozens of crowd-pleasing variations. A more intriguing undercurrent was the notion of protection, played out in techno fabrics and ideas like padding and quilting. Combine that sense with the models’ aerodynamic hair and silvery blush, and there were moments when the parade of mannequins felt like a march-past of candidates for the colonization of another planet -or just another empire yet to come ?