Ennio Capasa's latest collection for Costume National is unafraid to make bold statements. The first impression gathered from these clothes is that Capasa is returning to themes of disguise and concealment, given the predominance of hats, scarves and mufflers, to say nothing of gloves. Individually, these might be seen as a reaction against cold weather, but cumulatively the heavy outwear, unapologetically retro parkas and even, controversially, a very Russian-looking fur coat, give the impression that Capasa is drawing on ideas of espionage and double-crossing in the most original way imaginable. The typically glamorous cuts of the clothing, however, mean that the styles here lend themselves to as much exposure as possible.
In a season that has so far seemed almost dour in its seriousness, Capasa's smiling face at the end of the Costume National catwalk was refreshing in the extreme. And the clothes had the same easy appeal : pashminas are definitely in for boys this winter, as are lace-up boots and shiny anoraks over suits, and the mohair sweaters that Miuccia Prada also put on our Crimbo wishlist. Starting with the men in white, Capasa then let the mood darken with balaclavas and polonecks that crept up from the collar to the cheekbones. Even wide hairbands will be considered reputable fashion fodder for sensitive boys this season.
