Jeanne Lanvin made hats, womenswear, children's clothing, and fragrance for 37 years before offering a proper menswear collection -the first couturier to do so- in 1926. After her death in 1946, ownership of the company passed between various relatives and financial conglomerates before it was bought by a Taiwanese firm in 2001. Alber Elbaz was appointed creative director, which jump-started the label's remarkable resurgence. Though overseen by Elbaz, Lanvin's menswear is chiefly designed by Lucas Ossendrijver, whose mastery of technique and love of luxury (and sporty footwear) have helped restore the label to prominence.
Faded luxury has been a recurring theme of the menswear shows lately, but it's something Lanvin has been pushing for several seasons now, and the latest collection was no exception. Silk scarves, fine, crinkly materials, exposed seams and unexpected pleating were worked into a soft, straight silhouette, which was topped off with neat knitted skull-caps and brimmed, jockey headgear. Colors were muted but regal, with a palette of navy, khaki, mauve and gray, while a range of textures were created with details such as stripe ridging on pants and pleats at the back of jackets. Standout pieces included the high-waisted trench that opened the show and a beautifully simple contrast-collar jacket in thick, almost rigid, chocolate leather. On the final walkout a smiling Obama lookalike led the models out, reminding us that not everything is doom and gloom in 2009, especially if you're dressed head to toe in Lanvin.
Faded luxury has been a recurring theme of the menswear shows lately, but it's something Lanvin has been pushing for several seasons now, and the latest collection was no exception. Silk scarves, fine, crinkly materials, exposed seams and unexpected pleating were worked into a soft, straight silhouette, which was topped off with neat knitted skull-caps and brimmed, jockey headgear. Colors were muted but regal, with a palette of navy, khaki, mauve and gray, while a range of textures were created with details such as stripe ridging on pants and pleats at the back of jackets. Standout pieces included the high-waisted trench that opened the show and a beautifully simple contrast-collar jacket in thick, almost rigid, chocolate leather. On the final walkout a smiling Obama lookalike led the models out, reminding us that not everything is doom and gloom in 2009, especially if you're dressed head to toe in Lanvin.
