Since 2007, Phillip Lim has become known for well-tailored basics inspired variously by Bowie, bullfighters, and Barcelona, with a more-than-occasional maritime bent (navy peacoats, sailor shirts). He's also got a knack for creating pieces that, because of their material and construction, look a lot more expensive than they actually are. If the Bryan Ferry lyric quoted on Phillip Lim's program notes didn't clue you into the fact that the designer was in a musical mood, the presence of indie rock darling Lissy Trullie at the head of the stage and the dry ice curling up from the runway certainly did the trick. The 1960s rock style thing has also been done to death, but it was fun to revisit, given Lim's penchant for putting his own quirky-cool spin on everything he touches. The very eighties-higher-waisted pants, or the moleskin double-breasted suit with a vintage-style velvet collar worn by one model felt modern thanks to the cropped, boxy silhouette Lim favors. Tucked among the look-at-me rock star stuff were some very commercial pieces (a black cutaway cardigan here, grey flannel trousers there) that are sure to keep Lim's more conservative fans singing a happy tune, too. Ironically, the person who kept popping into my head while watching this neo-nostalgic outing was not Mick Jagger or Jimmy Page, but Marc Jacobs and his Marc by Marc Jacobs line, as that's what Lim seemed to really be paying tribute to.
