German-born Robert Geller moved to the USA to attend the Rhode Island School of Design before a stint at Marc Jacobs brought him to the attention of razor-sharp men's label Cloak (where Geller became a partner in 2002). After launching his own moody line in 2007, Geller won the GQ/CFDA award last February for best new menswear designer -and put out a capsule collection for Levi's as part of the spoils. The designer noticed men are starting to dress up again with a resurgence of haberdashery (neckties, bowties, hats...) and tailoring in the market. Said he : 'In America there's been this tradition of casualwear that men are finally sick of". This season's collection offers forward-looking apparel that men can actually wear : narrow shirts with small clipped collars, fur-trimmed parkas, wool pants with a subtle flair at the ankle, and tailored overcoats. The whole with a 19th-century romantic touch and accessories galore to fit modern dapper dandies.