John Varvatos set out to show Milan a different facet of his brand, to prove it was more than classic rock; more than Americana. He tapped into a darker mood that flirted with foppish goth. Too bad the show failed to project the old-world craftsmanship and refined tailoring that Varvatos holds so dear. The collection would have benefited from more outerwear, which was its forte. A crinkle-coated cotton / nylon anorak and a collarless scooter jacket, printed with Prince of Wales check, were novel and stood out. Tailored clothing, a major category for the brand, included shawl-lapel and double-breasted styles, many decorated with crested buttons and épaulettes. Straight-leg pants were cropped for a bit of swing, while sweaters elongated the upper body. The show was accessorized with chain belts, oversized black sunshades, narrow ties and silk scarves -all nice enough, but not particularly fresh.
