The inspiration for Paul Smith's latest collection was right there, on his invitation. It was a photo of what could have been a tearoom on the English coast, though it was actually taken in Darjeeling. Same went for the equally English-looking images he used as a backdrop. Aside from a couple of madraslike pieces, that was all we saw of India, but the idea of transplanted Englishness -which has been the essence of Sir Paul's international success- informed the show. As usual, he dipped into his own past. The opening group of gray suits was accessorized with fluoro cycling shirts (Smith might have been an Olympic cyclist if a near-fatal accident hadn't kiboshed his chances). And the frock coats paired with multi-buttoned waistcoats had an Edwardian flair that connected to the sartorial snappiness of the mods, who were an early education in style for Smith. In fact, "sartorial" says it all. The collection emphasized tailoring (and there were ties with everything).
But Smith is too much of a fashion polyglot to stick to one story. So he mixed up different tartans in the same outfit, or combined city and country by showing jackets in a hearty twill. The lining of a brown corduroy jacket popped with hunting red. After the show, Smith acknowledged the current climate by emphasizing the importance of accessories in the collection, offering passports for people with the will but not the wherewithal to enter the world of Sir Paul. Sure enough -the shoes were standouts, particularly a pair of dusty pink Chelsea boots.
But Smith is too much of a fashion polyglot to stick to one story. So he mixed up different tartans in the same outfit, or combined city and country by showing jackets in a hearty twill. The lining of a brown corduroy jacket popped with hunting red. After the show, Smith acknowledged the current climate by emphasizing the importance of accessories in the collection, offering passports for people with the will but not the wherewithal to enter the world of Sir Paul. Sure enough -the shoes were standouts, particularly a pair of dusty pink Chelsea boots.
