What to think of Kris van Assche's deathly leather cape ? Draping voluminously over a white union suit in the first look of the Belgian designer's show, it set the tone for an ominously dark collection that played with reversed layering, thin materials and unfinished hemlines in a series of looks in black, charcoal and slate.
While this wasn't KvA playing to his strengths -he's best when working with sportswear references and loud, brash colors- the collection nevertheless contained some interesting, more shadily romantic implementations of the drawstrings, ties and tailoring details from last season -particularly in the shapes created by laces at the back of the knee and ruched side pockets on cargo pants.
The silhouette was predominantly loose, with baggy trousers tucked into aggressive-looking black boots, and pieces such as a scarf-front waistcoat and dangling leather thong scarf creating motion around the torso. The Grim Reaper look was a slightly jarring surprise, but it's nice to see a designer step outside his comfort zone.
While this wasn't KvA playing to his strengths -he's best when working with sportswear references and loud, brash colors- the collection nevertheless contained some interesting, more shadily romantic implementations of the drawstrings, ties and tailoring details from last season -particularly in the shapes created by laces at the back of the knee and ruched side pockets on cargo pants.
The silhouette was predominantly loose, with baggy trousers tucked into aggressive-looking black boots, and pieces such as a scarf-front waistcoat and dangling leather thong scarf creating motion around the torso. The Grim Reaper look was a slightly jarring surprise, but it's nice to see a designer step outside his comfort zone.
